Food For The Festive Soul

By Manu Shrivastava

With Navratri having arrived, shopaholics couldn’t be happier. Festivals are known to break the firmest of resolves and legitimise the binging. To top it are local markets offering dream deals making it impossible to desist.

Topping the list of places to shop in the city, especially during festivals like Navratri, is Bhuleshwar in South Mumbai. The zone offers a slew of affordable shopping options for traditional clothes, sarees, accessories, imitation jewellery, brass and copper Puja articles, kitchenware, traditional food items, pickles, masalas and you-name-it!

Hindi film actor Shagun Mishra, shopping at M. Motilal Masalawala, strikes a pose

One of Mumbai’s oldest Gujarati food joint and a favourite among the authentic Gujarati food lovers is Bhuleshwar’s Hiralal Kashidas Bhajiawala outlet established in 1936, thronged by customers to eat and buy mouth-watering dhokla, khandvi, khakhara, thepla, jalebi, etc. 

A visit to this place is incomplete without tasting the sumptuous Surti Undhiyu, served hot with a side of choice, particularly, this time of the year. 

Surti Undhiyu served hot at Hiralal Kashidas Bhajiawala

“My grandfather came from Surat to Mumbai, at the age of 60 and started selling traditional Gujarati food at a time when there were hardly any options available in the area. He was a cook himself and his food became an instant hit with the locals,” says third-generation owner Gaurang Shah. "It's after Navratri, on Dussera, that Gujarati families from all over make a beeline to our outlet to eat the customary jalebi-gathiya," he adds.

Here, the staff is as loyal and old as the customers. For instance, the oldest staff member, 75-year-old Bhupatrai Mehta has been working at the shop for the last 51 years. “I live in Kandivali now and come to work at 8 am every day, without fail. I have spent most of my adult life working here,” he says with pride. 

Gaurang Shah (left) with his oldest employee Bhupatrai Mehta at the outlet in Bhuleshwar

At another shop, not too far away, Nishith Patel is busy managing the swarm of customers lining up to buy masalas, pickles, mukhwas, instant mixes, dry fruits, etc., storing and preparing for the approaching festive season. 

As the third-generation owner of M. Motilal Masalawala, established in 1912 by Motilal Patel, Nishith takes it upon himself to give personal attention to each and every customer. “All the items we sell are freshly prepared. We make sure our customers get what they’re looking for,” he says.

Nishith Patel with wife Bhavini and son Nidhra at their shop in Bhuleshwar

Wife Bhavini says, “During Navratri, it’s the Tutti Frutti poha that sells like hot cakes. In the days leading to the festival, we stack up our front shelves with this poha every morning and it gets over by evening.”

And, how can a festival feast be complete without a thali. While many outlets sell Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis, at Khandani Rajdhani, situated at Mumbai, Thane and Vashi, the authenticity of the dishes are maintained as they are prepared with carefully-curated recipes passed down generations. 

A thali served at a Khandani Rajdhani outlet

Their Vrat Thali is a must-have Navratri specialty and includes sabudana vada, kuttu ke pakode, shrikhand, basundi, sweet potato halwa, sabudana kheer, tomato paneer, malai paneer, arbi ki sabzi, jeera aloo, tomato dal, rajgiri kadhi, rajgiri rotlas, kuttu ki puri, and other dishes.

Click here to download PDF of the Navratri 2022 Special 'Devi Dhamaka'

Follow The Draft: Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube