Ram Leela: Drama For The Devout
By Nandini Rao
In the bustling city of Mumbai, where cultures from across India converge, the nine nights of Navratri unfold in a kaleidoscope of celebrations, merging traditions from various regions. While Western India reverberates with the rhythmic beats of garba and dandiya raas, the Eastern states honor the divine feminine through the grandeur of Durga Puja. In the North, the legend of Lord Ram’s triumph over Ravan is retold through ceremonies that span nine days, culminating in Dussera. But Mumbai is unique in its ability to host all these festivities simultaneously, creating a melting pot of devotion, celebration, and artistry.
Take a stroll through the city during Navratri, and you’ll find vibrant dandiya performances lighting up venues across the suburbs, while in the heart of the city, at Girgaum Chowpatty, Ram Leela—a dramatic retelling of episodes from the Ramayana—commands its own audience, with thousands of devotees filling the grounds every night. The re-enactment is more than just a show; it's a cultural tradition, one that has stood the test of time, though its audience has gradually waned.
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| A still from the Ram Leela performance at Girgaum Chowpatty |
One such Ram Leela performance, organised by the Shri Adarsh Ramleela Samiti at Chowpatty for over six decades, carries this legacy forward. A dedicated committee member, shares his dismay, "People today would rather watch these shows on television or YouTube than come in person. It’s disheartening."
Despite free entry and the heritage attached to the event, the grounds are no longer as packed as they used to be. But for loyal patrons like 85-year-old hawker Suresh Gupta, Ram Leela remains an irreplaceable experience. Seated early to secure his favorite spot, he relishes the drama that unfolds on stage, from Hanuman’s strength to Ravan’s theatrics. "It’s nothing like what we see back in the village," he exclaims, clearly captivated by the enhanced effects and grand stage in Mumbai.
As families continue to trickle in, some like Ashana Pandey and Ritu Mukesh make it a ritual to attend with their children. “It’s one of the few chances we get to come out late at night, safely, and enjoy the festival with our kids,” they say, delighted at their children’s reactions to the larger-than-life characters on stage.
Ravan, played by Bal Mukund Chaturvedi since 1982, remains a show-stealer. For him, playing the villain isn’t about being evil—it’s about embodying a complex character. “Ravan had knowledge but lacked wisdom. He made choices to maintain his stature,” Bal Mukund reflects, fully at ease in his role.
Behind the curtains, the energy is palpable as the cast prepares for yet another night of transporting the audience into the world of Ramayan. Directed by Baidyanath Chaturvedi, who took over from his father, the Shri Anant Ramleela Mandal from Mathura ensures every detail is in place, from the costumes to the music that accompanies each scene. For them, like for many others, Ram Leela is not just a performance; it’s a tradition that connects the audience to the age-old values of good triumphing over evil.
Even as the audiences shift to modern distractions, those who attend are treated to an experience that merges storytelling, devotion, and cultural pride—one that keeps the spirit of Navratri alive in the heart of Mumbai.
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