It’s time for Valsad’s Ubadiyu, Surat’s Undhiyu and Popti in Raigad
By Anushka Singh
Winter in Western India unfurls a celebration of seasonal produce, a bounteous gift from nature that transcends the ordinary and dives into the realm of culinary artistry. From the fertile expanses of Gujarat to the lush landscapes of Maharashtra’s Konkan, the season heralds the arrival of timeless dishes like Ubadiyu, Undhiyu, and Popti.
These delicacies, rich in tradition and steeped in history, evoke an unparalleled sensory experience, binding the essence of the land with the heritage of its people.
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| Ubadiyu is made from seasonal vegetables and locally-grown herbs and spices |
Ubadiyu, a rustic marvel from South Gujarat, owes its name and existence to the harmony of simple ingredients and age-old practices. Derived from the Gujarati words ubad and yu, meaning "knead" and "mixture," the dish is as much about the process as it is about the product.
The preparation begins with a medley of fresh, seasonal vegetables, tenderly kneaded with a masala blend of aromatic spices. Packed meticulously into an earthen pot, or matla, this vibrant mixture becomes the heart of a slow-cooking ritual that resonates with tradition.
The pot, lovingly encased in layers of sugarcane waste and hay, is lowered into a shallow pit where the alchemy of fire and earth begins. Flames lick the protective layers as time imparts a smoky complexity to the simmering vegetables within.
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| Babubhai Patel |
Babubhai Patel of Dungri (Valsad) on the Mumbai-Ahmedabad highway, celebrated for his skill in preparing Ubadiyu, elevates the dish with the inclusion of Kalhar leaves. This local herb, revered for its medicinal properties and distinctive aroma, transforms the dish into a symphony of flavours.
For over 34 years, Babubhai has been carefully selecting the freshest ingredients – bataka, papdi, ratalu, sakarkand, and more – each imbued with the essence of his land and the wisdom of his ancestors. The dish, often paired with green chutney, boiled corn, and cool buttermilk, is not merely food but an ode to Gujarat’s culinary soul.
Undhiyu, a cousin to Ubadiyu, dances to a slightly different tune. This iconic Gujarati dish derives its name from undhu, meaning "upside down," a nod to its unique cooking method.
In Surat, the city of abundance, Undhiyu is celebrated in two distinct styles – the milder, coconut-laden Surti version and the fiery Kathiawadi rendition. A medley of purple yam, baby potatoes, raw bananas, and tender brinjals come alive in this one-pot wonder, their flavours deepened by fenugreek dumplings called muthias.
Undhiyu, often served with pooris and a finale of shrikhand, transforms any winter gathering into a festive affair, underscoring Gujarat’s culinary brilliance.
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| Undhiyu is another delicacy made from seasonal vegetables |
Further south, in Maharashtra’s Raigad district, the winter tableau manifests in the form of Popti, a dish that encapsulates the rustic charm of the region. The name itself draws from Bhamburdi, a shrub whose leaves cradle the dish with their carom-like aroma.
Prepared in a clay pot lined with these leaves, Popti incorporates an ensemble of seasonal vegetables, marinated chicken, and farm-fresh eggs. The pot is placed over an open flame, allowing the earthy flavours to mingle with the smoky whispers of the fire. This communal preparation, rich in cultural significance, is a celebration of the harvest, uniting communities in shared labour and joy.
As the flames embrace the pot, the transformation within becomes a testament to the ingenuity of Maharashtra’s rural kitchens. Val beans, with their buttery texture, add depth to the dish, while freshly harvested groundnuts lend a nutty richness.
In every bite, Popti captures the spirit of the land and its people, standing as a culinary bridge between the past and present. Its resurgence in urban centres like Mumbai reflects not just nostalgia but a renewed appreciation for regional gastronomy.
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| Popti is the Maharashtrian equivalent of Ubadiyu |
Ubadiyu, Undhiyu, and Popti are more than winter treats; they are chronicles of a culture that thrives on simplicity, seasonality, and sustainability. Each dish, with its distinct identity and flavour, is a testament to the resourcefulness and creativity of its creators.
While Ubadiyu and Popti draw on rustic, earthy techniques, Undhiyu captivates with its intricate layering of spices and textures. Together, they form a trilogy of tradition, evoking warmth and togetherness in an era often bereft of such communal joys. In their enduring appeal, these dishes weave memories of childhood and community feasts, serving as culinary anchors in a fast-paced world.
They honour not just the ingredients and techniques but the very land that births them, standing as timeless symbols of western India’s gastronomic legacy.
Through these humble yet profound offerings, a story unfolds – of seasons, of soil, and of a people whose heritage is as rich and vibrant as the dishes they create.
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