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Ubadiyu vs Undhiyu

By Manu Shrivastava

In the realm of Gujarati cuisine, Ubadiyu and Undhiyu stand out as two distinct yet tantalising winter delicacies. These dishes, originating from Gujarat, India, share a common base of seasonal vegetables including purple yam, sweet potato, baby potato, brinjal, surti papdi, tuvar lilva, green peas, and raw banana. 

Complementing these veggies are fenugreek leaves dumplings known as muthias, and a unique blend of coconut, peanut, sesame seeds, green chili, ginger, garlic, coriander leaves, sugar, lemon juice, and salt. However, beyond their ingredient similarities lie stark differences in cooking techniques, flavours, and regional roots.

Ubadiyu being prepared along the Mumbai-Ahmedabad highway
Ubadiyu, derived from the Gujarati words "ubad" (knead) and "yu" (mixture), hails predominantly from South Gujarat, notably Valsad and Navsari districts. 

This dish undergoes a distinctive cooking process where the masala is kneaded with the vegetables and enclosed in an earthen pot called a "matla." 

The pot is then submerged in a pit, covered with hay, sugarcane waste, and dried dung cakes, and ignited. Slowly cooked amidst the earth's heat and fire's smoke, Ubadiyu acquires a rich, smoky, and earthy flavour profile. 

Typically sold by roadside vendors along the Mumbai-Ahmedabad highway, particularly near Valsad, it's served with green chutney, boiled corn, and chilled buttermilk.

Geeta Patel holding Kalhar herb
Geeta Patel from Pardi, renowned for her Ubadiyu along the highway, elucidates, "We incorporate papdi, aloo, ratalu, sakarkand, and greens, along with Kalhar plant leaves for aroma and to prevent papdi from burning. The vegetables are sourced from Udvada, while my son prepares the accompanying chutney."

The Kalhar herb, a mandatory ingredient in the preparation of Ubadiyu, is grown locally in South Gujarat and lends the unique flavour to Ubadiyu.

In contrast, Undhiyu, meaning "upside down" in Gujarati, enjoys broader popularity in Gujarat, particularly in Surat. Traditionally cooked in inverted earthen pots over fire pits (hence the name), modern variations involve pressure cookers or stovetop pots. 

Two primary styles, Surti and Kathiawadi, differentiate in their cooking methods and spiciness levels. 

Surti Undhiyu features vegetables stuffed with masala and cooked in oil, while Kathiawadi Undhiyu opts for a spicier masala without stuffing. 

Enjoyed during festivals like Uttarayan and Diwali, Undhiyu pairs impeccably with pooris or phulkas, occasionally accompanied by shrikhand or basundi for dessert.

Ubadiyu and Undhiyu, both emblematic of Gujarati culinary finesse, exemplify the versatility of regional cuisines.

Their preparation methods, flavour profiles, and cultural significance reflect the intricacies of Gujarat's gastronomic heritage. As winter delights, they not only tantalise taste buds but also nourish and invigorate the body, embodying the essence of Gujarati cuisine and tradition.

Ubadiyu and Undhiyu, entrenched in Gujarati culinary lore, serve as embodiments of tradition, heritage, and community. Their significance transcends mere sustenance, and reflects the local culture. 

As winter indulgences, they offer a comforting respite from the chill, infusing warmth and vitality into gatherings and festivities.

The accompaniments further enhance the experience, with Ubadiyu paired harmoniously with bajra rotla, green chutney, boiled corn-on-the-cob, and chilled buttermilk. 

Undhiyu is usually accompanied with poori or phulka
In contrast, Undhiyu finds companionship in the crispy texture of pooris or the wholesome goodness of phulkas, complemented by the sweet indulgence of shrikhand or basundi.

Beyond their gustatory pleasures, Ubadiyu and Undhiyu symbolise a slow, mindful approach to cooking, wherein flavours meld and textures evolve over time. This deliberate process not only accentuates the natural essence of the ingredients but also underscores a reverence for tradition and culinary craftsmanship.

In a fast-paced world inundated with culinary trends and fads, Ubadiyu and Undhiyu stand as steadfast symbols of Gujarat's rich gastronomic legacy. Their continued presence along the Pardi-Valsad highway serves as a testament to their enduring appeal and cultural significance, amidst the ever-changing culinary landscape.

As Daxesh Rathod, a Pardi-resident and tattoo artist, reminisces about his childhood fondness for Ubadiyu, his sentiment echoes a deeper connection to heritage amidst the modern flurry of fast food options. 

Daxesh Rathod has fond childhood memories of Undhiyu
Ubadiyu, with its nostalgic allure and regional exclusivity, embodies a sense of place and tradition that transcends mere culinary delight. Ubadiyu and Undhiyu, steeped in tradition and flavour, serve as culinary ambassadors of Gujarat's rich cultural heritage. Their recipes, passed down through generations, encapsulate the essence of regional ingredients, cooking techniques, and communal gatherings.

As the aroma of Ubadiyu wafts through the air along the highway stretch between Pardi and Valsad, it beckons travelers and locals alike to partake in a sensory journey through Gujarat's culinary heritage. 
The meticulous preparation and slow cooking process infuse each bite with layers of nuanced flavours, transporting diners to a bygone era where time was savoured, not rushed.

Undhiyu, with its roots entrenched in Surat's bustling streets, carries forth a legacy of festive feasts and communal celebrations. Whether enjoyed during the spirited festivities of Uttarayan or the luminous charm of Diwali, Undhiyu's presence at the dining table fosters a sense of togetherness and joy.

In a world where food is often consumed hastily, Ubadiyu and Undhiyu stand as timeless reminders of the importance of cherishing personal and cultivating human connections. 

They serve as conduits of cultural exchange, bridging generations and communities through the universal language of food.

As the sun sets over the picturesque landscapes of Gujarat, the legacy of Ubadiyu and Undhiyu continues to thrive, perpetuating a culinary heritage that transcends borders and resonates with hearts and palates around the world.

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